Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
