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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the family utterly astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.